The Flawless Ruins of Ancient Myra

My eagerness to visit the historical ruins of Myra came about because in its prime, it was one of the  most important cities of the ancient Lycian league.

Known as the first democratic union in history, the Lycian league can also take credit for influencing the United States constitution

The league left their footprint in history through ancient ruined cities all over the south west coast of Turkey and I was determined to visit as many of them as possible. This proved to be more difficult then I originally thought as while on my tour I discovered there is more historical attractions in this area of Turkey, than the whole of Greece put together!

I was not expecting a lot from Myra (now named Demre). After you have seen the ancient ruins of Ephesus, it takes a lot for anything to match up. However I was pleasantly surprised even though Myra is maybe one fifth of the size of Ephesus. This is probably due to the fact that Ephesusdisplays predominately Roman architecture and influence, while Myra still has traces of its Lycian heritage.

The result is completely different ambience, vibes and a unique experience

The main attractions at Myra are the large theatre which used to sit 13000 and the necropolis Lycian rock tombs. Even though you are  not allowed to walk around the rock tombs, you can still get a feel for the ancient Lycian culture and their beliefs.

Lycian tombs were always placed at the top of hills or on the cliffs as there was a belief that the dead would be transported to another world by a wing liked creature.

When they were first discovered by a foreign explorer,  the tombs were painted in bright red, green and yellow colors however very little of those bright colors are obvious today.

How to Get to Myra

To get to Myra, I jumped on the bus from Kas and got off in the town of Demre. From there, I saw a sign that said Myra was a 3km walk. Now, I know 3km and I also know the Turkish version!

In the heat of the midday sun and my bad sense of direction, I did not want to chance it. I could not find the local bus headed in that direction but managed to barter a taxi driver for a return journey for 20 Turkish liras. The ruins are open from 9am to 7pm every day and are just 10 Turkish liras to enter.

Even if visiting ancient ruins is not your passion in life, I would definitely recommend putting Myra on your list if you are passing through the area. It only takes an hour if you are looking for a quick visit; otherwise combine the ruins with a trip to the home of Santa Claus, otherwise known as St Nicholas Church.

Paragliding in Turkey : Thrilling Experience or Safety Hazard?

Veske  is a confident man with an addictive passion for paragliding. He does not just do it at the weekends or when he has opportunity to go on holiday. No, he is a professional paragliding pilot who runs off the side of a mountain every day of his working week.

Veske first jumped out of an airplane with a parachute when he was 16 years old, later he worked as a paragliding instructor for the Turkish military. Talking to him 23 years later, it is obvious that he still has the passion and spirit of adventure that first sent him on this course in life.

You may assume that he is an adrenaline junkie with a death wish

Quite the contrary, as a professional paragliding pilot he has completed over 6,000 flights as well as 1,350 skydiving jumps which shows he is serious about what he does for a living.

So why did I start this article by introducing readers to Veske? 

Well, you can normally guarantee that every year, there is a story in the newspapers about holiday makers who unfortunately end up having an accident while paragliding in Turkey.

Hurriyet News-  2011  – Experts raise concerns over paragliding accidents in Turkey

Daily Mail – 2010 – Pensioner clings to cliff ledge for 14 hours after paragliding accident

Fethiye Times – Paragliding Pilot faces court action after client falls 700 metres to his death

Some people have died, others have suffered injuries. Some companies have tarnished their public reputations while their workers face investigation by the Turkish authorities for murder or manslaughter.

I wanted to speak to a professional pilot to find out whether paragliding in Turkey is a sport that people can do on their holidays without any fears about safety. I also wanted to look behind the scenes at what the job of a paragliding pilot entails.

The expert that I found with a perfect safety record was Veske and he was quite happy to show me everything I wanted to know about paragliding in Turkey.

Veske - Professional Paragliding Pilot

When it comes to paragliding in Turkey, most people think first of the resort of Olu Deniz. However, for the interview, I headed to the coastal resort of Kas where Veske works every day forBougainville Travel, which are at the forefront of the trend for adventure sport activities in Turkey.

Considering the fact that Veske spends every day jumping off the side of a mountain, I expected him to be hyper; however, he was calm and relaxed as we sat down for coffee and question time.

Paragliding in Turkey Interview

Me :  Hi Veske. Thanks for agreeing to the interview.  Paragliding is quite a dangerous sport. How can people ensure that they are safe when they go up in the air for the first time?

Veske : Well actually, paragliding is one of the safest sports in the world. The only thing that can go wrong is human error. Every time my staff or I set off into the air for a tandem ride with customers, we know exactly what the predicted weather and wind speeds for that day will be.

We know the environment and layout of the land like the back of our hands. We have already triple checked all the equipment and briefed the customers on what to do. Once the customers are kitted up in the safety gear, we complete the last check.

Between the three professional paragliding pilots who work for Bougainville Travel, we have over 43 years combined experience of paragliding so our confidence and expert knowledge helps to calm down nervous customers. There are simple rules and if you obey them every single time, nothing can go wrong.

Preparing The Chute

Me: So considering the accidents of paragliding in Turkey in recent years of which some have resulted in deaths, do you think it is the fault of the companies running the paragliding tours?

Veske : I cannot say whether it was the fault of the companies or not as I do not know the specifics of each incident. We do have to remember as well, the ratio of accidents to the number of successful flights that take place every year in Turkey. This ratio is very small.

Generally though, inexperienced pilots or those who have become complacent are often the cause of accidents in paragliding, anywhere in the world. It is not enough just be licensed. Safety checks and rules must be obeyed at all times and then the flying experience will end up a brilliant one.

If a holiday maker wants to paraglide in Turkey, the best question they can ask their pilot is how many hours of paragliding they have done and are they familiar with the layout of the land.

All in a days work

Me: Have you ever had to turn away holiday makers who wanted to tandem paraglide with you?

Veske : Yes, as a professional paragliding pilot, I pay great attention to the mindset of people before they take off. Nerves can be controlled and after setting off, anyone who is nervous will often be calm as they experience the thrill.

Panic is a different matter, if we feel that the person will panic in midair, then I will not fly with them. We have also had some people who have been intoxicated, are missing a limb or appeared to suffer a form of mental illness, in which case, this would put too much responsibility on the pilot.

Me: Be honest and tell me if there is anything about being a professional paragliding pilot that you do not like.

Veske :  A lot of the time, experienced solo pilots will come to Kas and ask me for directions of the takeoff and landing points. The only landing point in Kas is the harbour upon which the paragliders of Bougainville travel are very experienced at landing.

Unfortunately, solo pilots with no knowledge of the area, often end up getting it wrong. I would like the local council to build a designated area of landing for paragliders who are not local and then there is less chance of the independent paragliders suffering accidents.

The interview with Veske taught me a lot about paragliding in Turkey; however, the prize of the day was to actually watch him in action.

Veske did offer to Tandem paraglide with me but my fear of heights stopped me from saying yes! Instead I jumped in the company van with customers and we drove 20 minutes up winding mountain roads until we reached the takeoff point.

I watched eagerly behind the lens of my camera as the customers were fitted out with their safety gear and given safety briefings. Veske was still relaxed and confident leading to a calming effect on the customers who at this point were looking rather nervous.

Safety Instructions

One by one, I watched as Veske waited for the right wind speed and then upon his signal, instructed the tandem pilot and customer to start running. A helper pulled them towards the edge to assist the chute in filling up with air.

Running Towards the Edge of the Mountain

They then soared into the sky and out of sight behind the mountain.

Lift-Off!

I was desperate to get back down to the harbor to watch them land and to speak to the customers of their experience. I made it just as the last person was landing. He had unfortunately thrown up upon landing but the other two customers were full of high spirits and a confident sense of achievement. I asked them if they would do it again and the answer was definitely!

Olu Deniz – Forgiving the None Traditional Vibes

One of my favourite destinations on my solo tour was Olu Deniz. Located on the south western coast of Turkey, it is a popular holiday destination for many Brits. Flights to Dalaman Airport are frequent during the summer months and the transfer time is roughly just an hour.

Now, I am not going to give you the spiel that Olu Deniz is the perfect introduction to Turkey, because it is not.

It is far from being a typical Turkish town. It is built around tourism and geared up to serve the needs of demanding holiday makers.

Those who are seeking a holiday full of Turkish culture and traditions will have to explore further afield however, Olu Deniz cannot simply be written off just like that.

Olu Deniz Main Street

You have to look further than the restaurants selling English breakfasts and the shops who have stolen the names of well-known western brands. Unlike other resorts such as Altinkum, these disappointing aspects are not the main focus of the resort.

The main focus of Olu Deniz is its amazing natural beauty. The famous blue lagoon, a long sandy beach, magnificent green mountains backing the resort and just around the coastline is Butterfly valley.

Boat Trips in Olu Deniz

The Blue Lagoon and Beaches

The semi-circle stretch of beach known as the Blue lagoon has appeared in numerous travel publications all over the world. It is what Olu Deniz is known for. I have to admit that when I arrived there, I was disappointed as the sharp blue waters that have appeared in numerous photos now appear to have been photo edited.

Blue Lagoon Olu Deniz

The water of the Blue Lagoon was muddy in some parts while a pale green in others. This still does not distract from the fact that it is a great area to spend the day in. I give a word of warning in that it can get crowded. I visited at the end of season and was very surprised to find no space in some areas.  Due to the fact that the blue lagoon was crowded, I found myself further on the beach, which was just as perfect.

Olu Deniz Beach

A Visit to Butterfly Valley

I have already written extensively about my visit to Butterfly valley here and cannot stress strongly enough, that if you are in Olu Deniz to visit it. You don’t need to jump on the daily tour boats, instead catch the local water taxi. Butterfly Valley is quite simply, another world in terms of being rustic, natural and far from the characteristics of mass tourism.

Butterfly Valley

But Olu Deniz is not Traditional Turkey

Ok, Olu Deniz is not traditional Turkey. The whole town is geared up for foreigners on holiday however surely we can forgive that on the account that Olu Deniz is beautiful. It does have a vibe around it of relaxing, stress free days. It does have a certain character that makes you fall instantly in love with it.

I felt comfortable exploring the resort on my own and there was certainly a lot to keep me busy so I ended up staying there for a week. Public transport to the surrounding resorts of Hisaronu and Fethiye is cheap and frequent, however in my opinion they cannot beat Olu Deniz.  There are also plenty of excursions to do that will take you to interesting places such as Uzumlu and Saklikent Gorge.

Saklikent Gorge

Take into account everything that I have stated above and it is easy to understand why many people have made Olu Deniz a destination that they return to year after year.  While I am the first to shout about experiencing a traditional Turkish holiday, I give Olu Deniz thumbs up if you are looking for an ideal holiday location in Turkey.

The Ghost Village Of Kayakoy

Kayakoy ghost village lies a short distance from the bustling and popular resorts of Fethiye and Olu Deniz. It is deserted, it is lifeless, the houses are crumbling and the streets are empty.

However, there is an aura and an overwhelming presence that hovers over the village. Some visitors might not sense it, but I did and it washed over me in waves.I truly believe that because I researched the history before going, I was able to appreciate my visit even more.

I was able to imagine the tragedy that caused the citizens to turn on their friends, abandon their homes, their dreams and everything they knew.

Kayakoy might be a ghost village but imagination and research certainly makes it come alive.

Turn of the 19th century – The Village with Two Names

At the beginning of the 19th century, Kayakoy was in full flow. Schools, churches, shops and business operated in harmony. Life was good. The village was thriving as a community.

The twist and most important part of its history lie in the fact that within the village, Greeks and Turks lived side-by-side. The Greeks called the village Levissi while the Turks called it Kayakoy.

Outside their religions and schooling, the Greeks and Turks integrated with each other, sharing the same common goal and that was to get through life one day at a time.

Birds without Wings

Understanding the past and daily life of this ghost village is important. One man put it into better words than I ever could. I strongly advise reading a book called “Birds Without wings” by Louis de Bernières, the same man who wrote Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.

Now, Louis has never said that the location of the book is Kayakoy however; I want to quote him in an interview by the Guardian newspaper. 

‘I went to south-west Turkey and there’s a ghost town there. It used to be a mixed community, as described in the book more or less, and they obviously had a wonderful way of life, quite sophisticated. An earthquake finally destroyed the town in the Fifties, but it really started to die when the Christian population was deported. It was walking around that very special place that gave me the idea .The town, called Eskibahce in the book, will be recognizable to those who know Turkey, ‘but I’m not going to go round telling people’.

The Turkish-Greek Population Exchange

The loss of the First World War, the end of the Ottoman Empire and the attempted Greek occupation of the Anatolian region, all combined to force the decline of Kayakoy. Greek Christian citizens were forced to go to Fethiye harbour for deportation and Muslim Turks were expelled from Greece.

Most of the returning Turks did not want to settle in Kayakoy. Of the ones that were already there, well they left when the earthquake hit. The point is though, a combination of historical events forced people to leave their friends, neighbours, homes and uproot their children. Whole lives changed forever when the signing of the treaty for the Turkish Greek Population exchange, took place.

Present Day

Nowadays, the ghost village is one of the biggest tourist attractions for Fethiye and the surrounding resorts. A few locals sell food and souvenirs to passing tourists and there are some occupied houses away from the main bunch of deserted properties on the hill.

With an effort to move on from the past, UNESCO named Kayakoy a world friendship and peace village. Walking around the village is interesting but you will appreciate it more,  if you research the history beforehand.

Tours and Getting There

There are many tours operating from Olu Deniz and Fethiye but everyone I know,  who went on them complained of a lack of time and lack of historical knowledge by the guide. Instead, there are regular local buses from Fethiye that will get you there in ten minutes.

Delving into the history of Kayakoy and then walking around the deserted village was one of the best highlights of my southwest coast trip. To be able to stand there and imagine life for the Greek and Turks who lived side-by-side, it does make you realize that religion does not have to play a part in friendships.

Unfortunately, the citizens of Kayakoy were pawns in a big game fought by the higher authorities. War tore their village apart and the same mistake is still repeated today in many other countries and villages all over the world.

Readers Question : Have you been to Kayakoy? Did you enjoy it as much as I did?

The Colourful Greek Island of Meis

The Greek island of Meis is colourful, quiet and full of bizarre locals. The one reason why I went there was simply because I was not forced into doing it.

You see, when I first came to Turkey, visa runs across to any Greek island were a necessity. Many expats did it and still do it now. At first, it was a novelty, but after a while, it became boring and I constantly thought about better things that I wanted to do with my time.

Eventually I ended up on a residency visa and then on Turkish citizenship so there was no need to worry about visas anymore.  This was when the idea of day hoping across to a Greek island did not seem like a chore.

It is strange that when you do not have to do something, it becomes more attractive.

My previous hatred of compulsory visa runs has disappeared and now I want to see all the Greek islands that have ferry access from Turkey.

While I was in Kas on my solo tour, I could see the island of Meis from my hotel rooftop, as it is only two miles away.  I decided there was no time like the present so I booked myself a return ticket. Theferry departs from the harbour at 10am and it is a quick trip across the water.

Arriving in Meis on the ferry, it was blaring obvious that the island is awash in colour.

Stupid people who have no concept of health and safety paint houses in bright colours.

Boat owners always opt for bright green, blue and red colours, which makes the harbour your typical Mediterranean picture postcard scene.

I decided the best way to get to know the island was to speak to the locals. They turned out to be a tourism board’s worst nightmare.

“Meis is good if you like drinking, eating, sleeping and doing nothing else,” said the bank teller who was very angry about his compulsory transfer from Rhodes. “After just a couple of days, you can become very bored”

“Yes, there is a castle but it is not worth seeing,” said the boat captain who was obviously getting ready for his afternoon siesta.

In total, there are about 350 people living permanently on the island but it will swell up in the summer time to around 1000.

So be warned that the island is not for everyone and think twice if you plan on an overnight stay.

My Recommendations

I spent a lot of time exploring side streets and sitting in cafes eating waffles and drinking frappes. My favourite moment though was the Blue cave. I wrote about this previously and cannot recommend it enough.

While it is 25 metres high, the entrance is only a metre but once you sail into it, the light reflecting off the water is amazing. If you want to go to the cave, when you come off the ferry, ask for Kostos.

He is terrible at steering boats and has no life jackets but he speaks very good English.

At the end of the day, I was actually glad to leave the Greek island of Meis. It is colourful and the locals are friendly, even though they have bizarre ways. It is just that the laidback pace is too much for me. I need some vibes and excitement. Maybe when I retire, I will return

Would I recommend it for an overnight stay? No.

Would I recommend it for a day trip? Yes, if you visit the Blue Cave

Ps – Do not forget to order a plate of delicious fresh calamari from the harbour restaurants.

Romantic Nights at The Spelunca

On my last trip to Goreme in Cappadocia, I took a lot of time deciding which hotel to book.  This was the first holiday that my husband and I would take in four years.

Everything had to be prefect and stress free. I had heard about the cave hotels in Cappadocia, however was unsure if I wanted to stay in one. After all, my knowledge of cave hotels was zilch and I stopped watching the Flintstones when I was 13 years old.

Having read Trip Advisor though, a lot of people recommended staying in a cave hotel whenever a visit to Cappadocia happens. So I took the plunge and booked the Spelunca Hotel in Goreme.

It was a good move to make because the Spelunca was everything I wanted it to be. The authenticity of the rooms and the hotel itself, gave emphasis to a romantic atmosphere that instantly made me relax. The hotel was also in a good location and an excellent base from which to explore the area ofCappadocia.

All mod cons were present in the rooms including heated towel rails, LCD TV with satellite channels, tea / coffee maker and the famous Jacuzzi bath. Famous because this was the first time that my husband discovered it is not a good idea to pour hotel bottles of shampoo into a Jacuzzi bath.

Breakfast was the traditional Turkish breakfast however the hotel expanded on their range so you had a wide choice of fruits, cheeses, olives, bread, and jams. You name it, everything was there. While the hotel did not do evening food, they would gladly order you some food in, if you did not want to go out.

Even though it was our holiday, I got into the habit of waking up at 6am every morning. My reason for doing so was the view of dozens of hot air balloons floating across the landscape. Every morning I made a cup of coffee and sat on the terrace watching them. The balloons would come so close and I swear that one morning, I heard someone shouting hello from the balloons.

So there must be something that I didn’t like about the hotel right? Well, their gardens could do with better upkeep and the 5 minute walk up the hill to the Spelunca hotel was enough to get me panting for breath. However apart from that, I actually felt like I wanted to sell up here in Altinkum and move into the hotel permanently.

I don’t think I will be going back to Goreme anytime soon so I won’t be returning to the Spelunca hotel. However I have found that sometimes in life, it is better not to go back to the places that you have fond memories of. The second time never measures up to the first and I want to keep the fond memories that I have of Goreme and The Spelunca Hotel.