Goreme Open Air Museum – Did The Guidebook Lie?

I am a realistic person. I don’t expect everything to be perfect or suitable to my tastes. It was the second day of my holiday in Goreme, Cappadocia and everything felt right. The food was delicious, hotel was clean and the people were friendly. That is when I started getting, warning bells.


You see, there is always something about your holiday that you hate. It might be the loud person in the hotel room next to you or the flight that was delayed for six hours. I was waiting for whatever it was that would push my buttons and it came to me in the form of The Goreme Open Air museum. The simplest way to describe it to you is as follows.
Cave Churches – The Guidebook Definition


Goreme open air museum is a place where history comes alive. Visit the ten beautiful and historically important cave churches that are the most fantastic sight to see in Cappadocia. Goreme Open Air Museum is a member of UNESCO World Heritage List and is admired by thousands of visitors from all around the world. One of the most photographed destinations in Cappadocia.
My Definition


Goreme Open air museum is 13 cave churches that all look the same. Throw in the Cappadocia tour guide that screams at you, the overpriced entrance fee, the vile coffee, the mile long toilet queue, seven coaches of selfish tourists and it will certainly be a day that you will remember for the rest of your life.



Did the guidebook lie to me or was it the snowball effect in action?


When I look back on the day, I suppose I could contribute my lack of enthusiasm towards the snow ball effect. If you have not heard about the snowball effect, it is when a succession of things go wrong one after the other. The result is that you blow your top and head for the nearest bar to drown your sorrows. So, my snowball effect experience went as follows.


1 - Having read the Cappadocia guidebook, I spent ages trying to persuade my husband to visit the “must see” Goreme Open Air Museum. The problem is, he is not really into sightseeing or cave churches If there had been nightclubs in Goreme, then I am quite sure that all our spending money would have gone into buying shares of their business. Half an hour later, I had managed to drag him up the steep hill to the entrance of the Goreme Open Air museum. (When I say steep, I mean very steep)


2 - On discovering that the entrance fee was 15tl for each person, I then had to listen to my husband moaning about how he would be a rich man if he had not married me. That is the other thing about my husband, he doesn’t like paying for things that he does not want to do. Well to be fair, who does? So a total cost of 30tl ($20) to enter and ten minutes of repetitive moaning about his bank balance.





3 -I put this behind me and entered the first cave church. I was admiring the antique paintings and a tour guide walked in with his small group. From experience, I have learned that most tour guides in Turkey suffer from the god complex i.e., the whole tourism industry is going to collapse without them. So I always make a point of ignoring them and leaving them to their group. I got the camera out of my bag and started taking photos.


This prompted the tour guide to practice his god complex on me. “No photos, no photos” he repeated in a panic. It turned out that you were not allowed to take photos inside the cave because the flash on cameras was ruining the ancient paintings on the walls. Well, if they made this known on signs, then I would have obeyed it. I sneaked out of the cave with my head bowed in shame and amongst a sound of repeated tuting and rude looks from his loyal group that was following him.





4 - So I soon realized that when you have seen the first cave church, you must as well go to the exit of the open air museum because all the cave churches look the same. I decided instead, to make the most of it and practice my new found hobby of photography. This is the other thing you must know about Goreme Open air museum. If you want family photos, know that every Tom, Dick and Harry will appear in them as well.


If someone was taking photos, I stopped and waited instead of walking in front of the camera. When it turned out that I was the only one with this philosophy, I decided that if you cannot beat them, join them. My face will appear in random stranger’s photo albums across the globe.





5 - Did I mention that the guide at the entrance also said that in the height of season they receive up to 2000 visitors a day? Bear this in mind, when I tell you that there is only one toilet! 35 minutes later, when I was seriously considering peeing into an empty water bottle, I managed to make it into the one and only cubicle, which at that point seemed like paradise even though it had run out of toilet paper.


6 - I returned to my husband who was waiting outside for me with a cold cup of vile coffee and a smug look on his face that said “I told you so…” Just to get back at him, I made him buy me a book on Goreme Open Air museum that I didn’t really want and to this day have still not read.


So, I don’t know whether the guide book lied to me or it was the snowball effect that left me with a poor impression of the Goreme Open Air museum. However I am glad I went because I can at least say that I have been there and done it.

Walking The Ihlara Valley

Ihlara valley in Cappadocia is a place that you will either love or hate. It is a 14Km hike through a gorge that was formed thousands of years ago when there was an earthquake and volcano eruptions one after the other.

If you don’t want to complete a full 14km trek, there are four entrances and exits situated at various points. Just completing 4km of the Ihlara Valley trek will amaze you and remind you about the power of Mother Nature. The entrance that I walked down was 365 steps but there are other entrances where you can drive straight down to the gorge.

Along the trek are four ancient Christian churches that were made hundreds of years ago when people carved into the rock and made caves their homes and places of worship. You can see still paintings on the rock face that were made all those years ago.

Pack plenty of water bottles to drink along the way because even though there is a tea garden and restaurants along the trek, you will definitely build up a thirst. The food at the restaurant was good if your taste buds had previously lost the will to live, otherwise I would take a packed lunch if walking makes you build up an appetite.

I went to the Ihlara valley as part of a day tour that I had booked. We spent about three hours there and that included having lunch. If you are the type of person who loves walking and sightseeing then I would suggest skipping the tours and coming here independently  so that you can spend a full day taking in the surroundings at your own pace. We were with a group of eight other people and I felt the walk through the gorge was too quick.

We only completed 4km but in this time, I would have liked to stop and take in the beauty of the Ihlara Valley.  I also would have liked to visit the small village of Ihlara nearby, and take in the ambience of how Turkey really is.  Readers that know me, will also know that I live in Altinkum which is a Turkish town geared up for tourists. It has lost its authenticity where as one look at Ihlara will tell you that they have been totally unaffected by the thousands of tourist that visit there every year.

This walk is definitely getting in touch with nature in its prime and even if you only complete 4km of the trek, I strongly recommend you put it at the top of your list of things to do when in Cappadocia.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks. Quote by John Muir

Derinkuyu.The Ancient Underground City

The ancient underground city of Derinkuyu is proof of what man can achieve when his life is threatened. It is a complex network of tunnels and rooms that formed a city 100 meters under the ground.

Hundreds of years ago, when the area was attacked, citizens used to flood to the underground city and stay until it was safe to re-enter the land of the living.

Warning

The ancient Derinkuyu underground city is not a place to visit if you suffer from claustrophobia, high blood pressure, a dickey heart or panic attacks. Walking down the flight of stairs in the Derinkuyu City sometimes becomes so cramped that you begin to lower your head and feel suffocated by the lack of space.

There is a mass of tunnels and rooms and the only way to find your way is by following the arrows put there by the association that manages the city. Red means you are going further into the city, blue means you are going out and back up to the surface. When visiting Cappadocia, I entered the Derinkuyu caves and explored eight levels  of this man made city which makes me give credit where it is due.

The Derinkuyu underground city is impressive and shows man’s commitment to self-preservation and what he can achieve when everything he has ever known is threatened. ( Note, there is eleven levels to the city but not all of them are open  to the public).

The city was big and complex but there was a general layout to it. Animals were crowded into the top level of the city; the kitchens were placed on the next level, domestic living rooms on the next level after that and so forth. The citizens that built the Derinkuyu underground city thought of everything. This city was not intended for permanent living however it could be months that they stayed in there until it was safe to go back up.

So they had a plan for everything

* Sometimes people would go crazy. Days without sun and fresh air can affect a man’s mind. If people went crazy, there were stone slots that they were tied to with a piece of rope. This would prevent them from trying to escape to the surface or attacking other people.

* If anyone tried to sneak out of the underground city, they would be crucified and their bodies were all put in one room to prevent disease. This was done as a deterrent because if anyone got caught on the surface, it is possible they would give away the secret of hundreds of people living under the ground.

* Stone wheels were rolled across entrance ways to form doors and they could only be opened from the inside.

* There was fresh well that provided water to certain levels and air ducts ensured a fresh supply of oxygen.

* Weekly prayer took place in the church. A storage room would hold the supply of wheat and grain while a winery would produce alcohol so everyone could get drunk and forget where they were living.

I have to say, that when I come out into fresh air, I was very glad. I felt suffocated just spending an hour in there; can you imagine how people felt in the past when they had to spend months in there?

Be prepared for a rush of touts selling items when you leave the underground city, apart from that it is a fantastic place to visit and makes you feel very humble indeed. If underground cities are your thing, then make your holiday a long one as there are 36 of them to see in Cappadocia.

Urgup In Cappadocia

When I was searching for accommodation in Cappadocia, the choice was between Urgupand Goreme. I finally settled on the latter  but still had to go to Urgup for the day to see why my good friend Brenda Farrell loved it so much and recommended it for accommodation.

What is the difference?

Both of them have their own unique vibes but within half an hour I had spotted the unique character of Urgup and why it attracts a different type of traveler.  Goreme is more for backpackers, youngsters and those on a budget.  The restaurants are cheaper and bars have western names such as The Flintstones Café and Fatboys.

Urgup is a bit more upmarket. In the town square are cafes that remind you of a Mediterranean afternoon.  People sit for hours drinking cappuccinos and gossiping with their friends while life goes on around them. The shops in Urgup are a brand name with an organized disciplined look.

Viewpoint

I spent the afternoon wondering around Urgup and went up to the viewpoint at the top of the highest hill. This gives you a full 180 degree view over the town. There is a café at the top and if you are nostalgic, they have photos of Urgup going back over 70 years.

Eating Out

I also had my evening dinner in the town and want to recommend the best restaurant in Cappadocia. I ate out every evening while I was in Cappadocia but the meal served by The Han Ciragan Restaurant in Urgup was the best.

It was not cheap however the price was reflected in the taste and atmosphere of the restaurant. If you are traveling on a budget, get fed up of eating cheap kebabs and want to blow your money, then that is the restaurant to head to.

I was left with a good lasting impression of Urgup. It is a place to consider if you are looking for accommodation in Cappadocia. I wouldn’t say it was better than Goreme as each of them have their own special character and vibes.

Readers – If you are going to Cappadocia for a holiday, check out my other posts below on what to see and where to go.

Sunday Snap. The Pottery Tree

When you are in the Cappadocia region, one thing you will see a lot of is pottery. In specific,  red clay pottery which comes from the town of Avanos.

I took this picture walking up to the Goreme Open hill museum. As it was such a steep climb, I was tempted to get in a car and drive up there but I am now glad I didn’t.

On the walk up to the museum is so many sights to see that you would miss if driving up the hill. There is the horse safari ranch, the camels, the traditional tea shop, the cave restaurant and of course this pottery tree.

If ever there was an argument for using your own two feet then this is it. The Goreme Open air museum is located a 30 minute walk from the center of Goreme (it is not far but I am taking into account that it is up a steep hill).

If you are staying in the towns of Uchisar or Urgup, then I strongly recommend going by bus and getting off in Goreme. That way, you can take in the important sights that you would otherwise miss if going by car.

Avanos. The Wild West Town

Avanos is a small town in the Cappadocia region. It reminds me of  the Wild West films that show deserted streets while playing an eerie whistling tune?

You look up the street and then down the street.

You complete a full 360 degree turn and the only thing to be spotted is a stray dog searching through the bins for scrap food.

That is the perfect way to describe Avanos. It is a ghost town that seems to have been forgotten and left off the map.

I went to have a good look around Avanos but I especially wanted to see the red clay pottery that the town is famous for. Avanos is roughly a 15 minute drive from Goreme and it is part of Cappadocia.  You may see some websites advertising accommodation in Avanos however my recommendation is not to stay there unless you are using it as an overnight base while on your travels to another destination.

Shopping

If you are a shopping fanatic, than Avanos is not for you.  I had to wonder how half the shops in Avanos made any money as they were old, empty and shop owners were quite content to watch the world go by instead of making any money. Head to other places in Cappadocia  like Nevsehir if you want to shop

Pottery

We found a traditional Turkish restaurant, settled down for a bite to eat and then went exploring the area. Avanos does have another credit to its name, in that it has the longest river in Turkey flowing through it but I was more interested in seeing the pottery factories that I had been told about.

One shop owner obviously had the gift of the gab unlike the rest of the town, and I found myself going into his shop for a pottery demonstration instead of heading to the main factories. Cue my Demi Moore impression and my pathetic attempt at making a bowl.

What else is there to do while in Avanos? Well I saw some carpet shops and a small unimpressive winery. Apart from that, don’t expect any overwhelming feelings of love for the place. There are better places in Cappadocia. I really did feel like the stranger that had strolled into town and was being eyed with suspicion by everyone. After a couple of hours in Avanos, I got back in the car and slowly left the town without as much as a backwards glance.

Readers – If you are headed to Cappadocia, don’t forget to see my other posts below on what to do and where to go

Nevsehir. To the Castle and Back Again

One town that I wanted to see while in Cappadocia was Nevsehir. It is the major hub for all the surrounding villages and seems to be the centre of everything.  We jumped in the car, set off and within the hour arrived in a bustling city.

One thing we did not do before setting off though, was to find out exactly what there was to do. We did not think this would be a problem as surely there would be signs and we can speak to the locals.

Within twenty minutes of driving around the town, we came to the conclusion that the town had nothing to offer apart from shops and parks. We were proved wrong though, when we spotted a sign saying Nevsehir castle.

The Castle

Do not attempt to walk the steep hill leading up to Nevsehir castle.  We were in the car and at times I feared we would go rolling back down the hill thanks to the steepness. For Bulent, who was driving, it was not a problem however I dread to think of what would have happened if I had been driving.

Once you reach the castle, the view is gorgeous. It was a complete 360 degree view over Nevsehir. There are no artefacts or guides at the castle. For that you will have to go to Nevsehir museum in the town which is impressive. There are two floors of artefacts from the area of Nevsehir dating back hundreds of years.

Once we had been round the museum, we spoke to the guard and asked what else there was to do. There is nothing else in Nevsehir apart from the castle, museum and shopping so my advice is not to book a hotel here.

Book your hotel in other areas of Cappadocia such as  Urgup or Goreme and you will find yourself in close distance to all the sights to see.

For the day however,  I thoroughly recommend a visit. Even if you don’t do castles, there are plenty of brand name shops to keep you busy. Regular buses run from all the regions of the Cappadocia area.

Readers Question : Not many people visit Nevsehir while they are in the Cappadocia region. Have you been? If so, what did you think?

Are you going on holiday to Cappadocia? If so, read my other posts listed below on what to do and where to go.